forest overgrown with invasive plants

A lot teeming with foreign invasive plants like Callery pear, English ivy, autumn olive, and Japanese honeysuckle. Photo: Mikaela Boley, University of Maryland Extension

Updated: April 29, 2026

Key points about replacing invasive plants

  • Invasive plants are not native and harm the environment, economy, and even human health.
  • Invasive plants can be controlled long-term by utilizing a combination of control techniques and tools that are specific to their biology.
  • Replace invasive plants with competitive native plant species that are appropriate for the soil and growing conditions.

What are invasive plants, and why should they be removed?

Invasive species are non-native organisms that cause harm to the environment, economy, or human health with damages costing the United States approximately $120 billion every year (Simberloff, 2013). Invasive plants alter the native ecosystem and disrupt biodiversity in forests, meadows, and wetlands. These species have unfair advantages over native plants, especially in human-disturbed habitats. They reproduce aggressively in multiple ways, and at a much faster pace than our indigenous plants.

Why should communities and residents be concerned about invasive plants?

Invasive plants are the greatest threat to our natural environment, other than habitat destruction. Our native environment supports native plant biodiversity crucial for the survival of insect and bird populations and the entire food chain. Invasive plants also cost our national economy billions of dollars annually, devastate agriculture, and diminish the quality of parks, natural, and recreational areas.

The term "native" refers to a plant species that occur naturally in an ecoregion and habitat over the course of evolutionary time. To learn more about native plants, refer to What is a Native Plant?

Controlling invasive plants long-term

Because of the aggressive nature of invasive plants, it is unlikely that one treatment will completely eradicate a population. Unless control methods are used before establishment, it may take months to years of observation and management to suppress new growth of the undesired plants.

Use a methodical approach to management:

  1. Identify the problem. Proper plant identification is the first step to invasive plant control. Before implementing any methods, consult Ask Extension or contact your local county Extension office.
    1. Use invasive species resources to learn about common invasive woody and herbaceous plant species in Maryland.
    2. Early detection and eradication are best when plants are smaller or more manageable. Taking early action will help slow the spread, but any action, any time, can still have a profound impact stopping invasives.
  2. Learn more about the plant's life cycle and biology. Understanding the biology and growing habits of an invasive plant species will help you create an implementation plan for successful control.
    1. The publication Plant Invaders of Mid-Atlantic Natural Areas (PDF) provides great guidance for how to approach control and handle the species in question.
    2. Recognize your challenges; if a neighbor has English ivy or Callery pear, you’ll want to identify those plants as needing more attention for removal. Better yet, convince neighbors to join the effort in eradicating their invasive plants.
  3. Utilize a variety of control methods and tools to eradicate the plants. A "toolbox" approach that offers a range of control methods can be more successful than one type of removal attempt. Methods can include physical and mechanical removal (such as digging up or cutting down the plant), biological control (recruiting an organism to eat the plant; this is rare), and chemical control (herbicide) as a last resort.
    1. Common mechanical treatments include repeat mowing or cutting the plants down, pulling up the plant with its roots, smothering the plants with a light-blocking material (like cardboard, newspaper, or wood chips), or livestock grazing (goats, for example). Mechanical removal is recommended for small spaces.
    2. Chemical control (using herbicide) can include different application methods: cut-stump, “hack-and-squirt”, basal bark, and foliar treatments. Which treatment options work best (and when they should be used) will depend on the plant species, so it is important to understand the plant’s biology and growth habit. It is highly recommended to use the Plant Invaders of Mid-Atlantic Natural Areas publication as a guiding resource, or HGIC resources:
  4. Replace the area with competitive plantings. Once cleared of invasives, replant the area with native plantings as soon as possible. Otherwise, exposed or disturbed areas can easily be taken over again by the invasive species you have worked so hard to remove. Here are some ideas and recommendations to consider:
    1. If the space is small enough, you may choose to remove all undesirable plants at one time.
    2. With larger spaces or wood lots, you may opt to address the area in manageable sections or prioritize particular spaces for removal efforts. For example, a person may choose to remove Japanese barberry from the existing landscape to replace it with a native alternative, such as Virginia sweetspire.
    3. Even without funds to purchase replacement plantings, small efforts to control invasive plants can have a big impact. For example, cutting out a 12-inch section of the main stem of an English ivy vine that is growing up the trunk of a large landscape tree. For better efficacy in that scenario, paint the surface of the fresh-cut ivy stem with glyphosate or another herbicide approved for woody vine control.
    4. Refer to the following table of Recommended Native Plants for specific species to consider planting.
  5. Continue to monitor the area and take more action as needed. Even after initial removal efforts, keep observing and suppressing invasive plant growth as it returns. Monitor the area as you replant, and spot-treat any hard-to-control invasives as necessary. Use different methods of control and treatments depending on the time of year, plant species, and severity of invasion.

Personal protective equipment (PPE) and pesticide use

When used properly and according to the product label, herbicides are a very effective tool in the removal of invasive plant species. Wear proper PPE to protect yourself when applying a pesticide; the required or recommended PPE (chemical-resistant gloves, closed shoes, long sleeves, protective eyewear, etc.) will be outlined in the label directions. It may also be useful to familiarize yourself with information in the resource:

Glyphosate (Roundup®) Information and Alternatives for Weed Management

Replacing invasives with recommended native plants

In order to compete with the growing habits of invasive plants, it is recommended you choose native species that can be considered “aggressive”. It is crucial to consider the site's growing conditions and soil type when you choose replacements so they are more likely to thrive.

Bee balm (Monarda) is spreading in a bare area where invasive where removed
Beebalm (Monarda didyma) resuming growth in early spring. From two transplants, the area is now dominated by this species only one-and-a-half years later.
native plant lyre leaf sage growing in a bare area
A carpet of lyreleaf sage seedlings (Salvia lyrata), a native perennial that can spread readily from seed.

Can native plants be invasive?

The term “invasive” is used in reference to non-native species that have been introduced to an area. That is why native plants are referred to as “aggressive” instead. Some native species that spread widely or readily are too overwhelming for a small or tidy home landscape, but they may work perfectly in the battlegrounds of disturbed areas prone to being overrun with invasive species.

Competitive native plants to replace invasives
Plant TypeCommon NameBotanical NameSun ExposureSoil TypeMoisture LevelNotes or Other Attributes
Grass/Grass-likeSwitchgrassPanicum virgatumFull sun to part shadeClay, loam, or sandDry, moist, or wetDeep root systems help stabilize soils. Can occur in both fresh and brackish marshes. Considered aggressive for small home gardens.
Grass/Grass-likeWool rushScirpus cyperinusFull sunClay, loam, or sandMoist to wetGrows in tough clumps and will spread. Great for ditches, rain gardens, and wet areas. Host plant for Dion Skipper and Eyed Brown butterfly caterpillars.
Grass/Grass-likeNorthern sea oatsChasmanthium latifoliumPart shadeClay, loam, or sandDry to moistSelf-seeds readily from decorative seed heads.
PerennialBonesetEupatorium perfoliatumFull sun to shadeClay, loam, or sandMoist to wetGood for floodplains and ditches, plus conservation and rain gardens. Popular with pollinators, having a coarse visual texture in the landscape.
PerennialBlue mistflowerConoclinium coelestinumFull sun to shadeClay or loamDry, moist, or wetA member of the mint family that will wander if allowed. Great for meadows and damp woods. Vibrant blue-violet flowers. May be eaten by deer.
PerennialSensitive fernOnoclea sensibilisFull sun to shadeClay, loam, or sandMoist to wetSpreads by underground runners (rhizomes); a good groundcover, but will range. Deer-resistant. If grown in full sun, the soil should be consistently moist (like a wet meadow or creek side).
PerennialGolden ragwortPackera aureaFull sun to shadeLoamMoist to wetHas a relatively long bloom time in spring. Can be aggressive, spreading from seed and runners. Prefers wetland/moist bottomland areas.
PerennialCutleaf coneflowerRudbeckia laciniataFull sun to part shadeClay, loam, or sandMoist to wetTall-growing, with herbal uses. Will spread in wet areas and ditches. Tolerates acidic soil.
PerennialLyre-leaf sageSalvia lyrataFull sun to part shadeLoam or sandDry to moistGreat groundcover that self-seeds freely. Prefers sun but can handle deep shade. Can bloom twice (spring and again in fall) if deadheaded to remove spent flowers.
PerennialCanadian goldenrodSolidago canadensisFull sun to part shadeClay, loam, or sandDry, moist, or wetCommon in fields, roadsides, and fallow spots. Good late-season source of nectar/pollen for insects.
PerennialMountain mintPycnanthemumFull sun to part shadeDepends on
species
Depends on
species
Great for pollinators, and spreads via runners. Pycnanthemum incanum will handle shade, but most prefer sun.
PerennialCanadian germanderTeucrium canadenseFull sun to part shadeClay, loam, or sandMoistSpreads by rhizomes and prefers moist soils. Makes a great cut flower and groundcover.
PerennialBee balmsMonardaFull sun to part shadeDepends on
species
Depends on
species
A member of the mint family, with showy flowers that are popular with pollinators (including hummingbirds).
PerennialCommon milkweedAsclepias syriacaFull sunLoam or sandDryForms large patches/colonies once established. Can tolerate the tough soil found on the shoulders of roadways. Great for monarchs (nectar for adults and foliage for caterpillars) and popular with other pollinators.
PerennialWhite snakerootAgeratina altissimaFull sun to shadeClay, loam, or sandDry to moistA tough plant that prefers basic (slightly alkaline) soils.
AnnualOrange jewelweedImpatiens capensisPart shade to shadeClay, loam, or sandMoist to wetAnnual (one-year life cycle) that self-seeds and competes well in areas populated by Japanese stiltgrass. Prefers moist bottomlands in shade.
ShrubGroundselBaccharis halimifoliaFull sunClay, loam, or sandDry, moist, or wetDominates ditches and shoreline sites. Tolerates flooding and soil salinity, plus alkaline soils.
ShrubElderberrySambucus canadensisFull sun to shadeClay, loam, or sandMoist to wetEdible berries (for humans and wildlife). Suckers (spreads from new stems arising from the roots) and prefers alkaline soil; best in swamps.
ShrubSummersweetClethra alnifoliaPart shade to shadeClay, loam, or sandMoist to wetVery fragrant flowers. Tolerates some salinity, and suckers freely.
TreeSweetgumLiquidambar styracifluaFull sun to part shadeClay, loam, or sandMoist to wetCan dominate wetland areas. Seeds contain shikimic acid (used medicinally).
TreeLoblolly pinePinus taedaFull sun to part shadeClay, loam, or sandDry, moist, or wetEvergreen, providing winter cover/shelter and food for wildlife. Prefers acidic conditions. Early-successional species colonizing recently disturbed or cleared ground.
TreeEastern red cedarJuniperus virginianaFull sunClay, loam, or sandDry to moistFruits support over 50 bird species. Self-seeds readily. Alternate host plant for the Cedar-Apple Rust fungus.
TreeBoxelderAcer negundoFull sun to part shadeClay, loam, or sandMoist to wetGrows in lowlands next to rivers or waterways. Tolerates a variety of soils. Wood is considered brittle.
VineVirginia creeperPathenocissus quinquefoliaFull sun to shadeClay, loam, or sandDry, moist, or wetBank stabilizer and can be used as groundcover. Trim to control as needed. Showy fall foliage color.
VineTrumpet vineCampsis radicansFull sun to part shadeClay, loam, or sandDry to moistDevelops very thick vines as it matures; try to keep off trees to avoid weighing-down or breaking branches.
VineNative honeysuckleLonicera sempervirensFull sun to part shadeClay, loam, or sandDry to moistLong bloom period with showy flowers. Very beneficial for wildlife, and grows less wildly than the invasive Japanese honeysuckle. Needs to be supported by (and tied to) a vertical surface or trellis.

 

Additional resource 

Book | Simberloff, Daniel. (2013) Invasive Species: What Everyone Needs to Know.

Author: Mikaela Boley, Senior Agent Associate in Home Horticulture, University of Maryland Extension, 5/2021

Still have a question? Contact us at Ask Extension.