Vines for Maryland Gardens

A unique aspect of vines is their need for some type of structural support. A variety of purchased or homemade structures can be used to add a vertical design element to a garden. Explore options such as trellises, arches, obelisks, lattices, poles, cages, and arbors. If you select a vine that does not cling or grasp naturally, you will need to “train” the plant so that it will weave into your chosen structure. Begin to train or guide the vine onto the structure when it is young.

Vines are usually purchased as container-grown plants. They can be planted at any time when the soil is workable (not frozen), but fall and spring are the best times. A fall-planted vine will have more time to begin establishing its root system before hot weather (and higher water demand) begins the following summer.

To plant vines, follow the same steps as you would for growing other types of perennial plants. 

• Select a plant that is appropriate for your site conditions. The “right plant in the right place” approach will minimize the chances of plant stress and subsequent plant health problems.
• Test your soil and amend it, if necessary. Mixing 3 to 4 inches of well-rotted compost into the top few inches of the planting area can improve the soil's water-holding capacity and structure.
• Dig a hole two times as wide but no deeper than the height of the container in which the plant was grown. The top of the root ball should be set evenly with or slightly above the soil grade.
• Loosen the plant's roots. If they were circling around the inside of the container or crowded in the pot (“root bound”), slice the root ball with a knife or other sharp tool in a few places and set the roots so that they are pointing outward from the stem.
• Water thoroughly after planting.

Watering: The amount and frequency of watering will depend on the type of vine selected, soil conditions, and weather.

• Newly planted vines: Check soil moisture at least once each week for their first growing season and monitor it carefully for the first two years. This is a critical period for good root establishment.
• The best way to check soil moisture is with your hand. Dig down or press a finger several inches into the soil. If it feels dry to the touch, water the root area thoroughly so that water soaks down into the top 6 inches of soil. You can use a small shovel or trowel to dig and check the soil moisture at that level.

Mulching: The same benefits of mulching that apply to trees and shrubs apply to vines. Mulch materials such as leaves or wood chips should cover the entire root zone area and should be no more than three inches deep.

Fertilizing: Test your soil every three years to determine its pH, organic matter, and nutrient content. Vines usually do not need regular fertilization. If your soil test identifies any nutrient deficiencies, you can correct them using an organic or synthetic fertilizer, following the product instructions. Apply fertilizer in early spring prior to new growth.

Monitoring: Insects, diseases, and environmental factors can damage vines. Become an observant gardener and monitor your plant(s) regularly. At the first sign of a problem, determine the cause before taking any action. Misapplied pesticides (including fungicides and insecticides) can do more harm than good. Send photos of symptoms to Ask Extension or contact your local Extension office for assistance with diagnosing problems.

Pruning techniques vary depending on the type of vine and its specific use. The general principles for pruning deciduous shrubs also apply to woody vines.

• Pruning stimulates new growth; it does not stop growth. 
• Vines can be pruned to temporarily limit their height and weight, or to direct the growth in a particular way.
• Diseased or dead stems can be pruned out at any time. Cut back to healthy wood.
• Vines that bloom before early summer (mid-June) can be pruned immediately after the flowers fade. (Example: Wisteria)
• Vines that bloom in summer or fall can be pruned in late winter or early spring. (Example: Trumpet vine)
• Vines grown for foliage instead of flowers: prune in early spring before new leaves appear.
• Old vines can be rejuvenated by cutting all but a few stems near the ground. Do severe pruning in the dormant season. 
• Annual thinning of old and weak stems encourages new growth. Thin any crowded stems by cutting them to the ground.
• Some common vines grow vertical stems rapidly, with just a few lateral (side) branches. These “leader” branches can be pinched off at the tip or pruned back during the growing season to develop more horizontal branches. Horizontal branches tend to grow more slowly and produce more leaves, flowers, and fruit than vertical branches.

Pruning Hybrid Clematis: Clematis plants are categorized into groups based on their growth and flowering habits and recommended pruning timeframes. Commercial growers refer to categories A, B, and C (or sometimes 1, 2, and 3). When you purchase a Clematis, note which category it belongs to (check the plant tag or take note of the name and check references).

• Category A (or 1): Flowers early in spring (before June) on old growth from the previous year. Prune immediately after the flowers finish blooming, and no later than July.
   
• Category B (or 2): Flowers on new and old wood. This category is divided into two subgroups.
  • B1: Flowers in early summer (May-June) on old stems and again in September on the current season’s new stems. Lightly prune back some of the stems in early spring. Occasional hard pruning to refresh the plant will result in only September flowers for that year
  • B2: Flowers from June through September on both the previous and current year’s stems simultaneously. Prune according to either B1 or C groups.
     
• Category C (or 3): Flowers anytime from June to September on the current season’s new stems. Prune in late winter or early spring.